 |

12-08-03, 00:46
|
 |
Member
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 84
Rep Power: 5
|
|
|
LT1 & a gear drive??
Can it be done? Can I buy a vette motor with the LT1 intake and put a gear drive in it? Aren't the blocks the same from say a 80s 350 to the early 90s 350? I just want to make sure...thanks!
|

12-08-03, 09:10
|
 |
Administrator
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 5,309
Rep Power: 12
|
|
|
Physically it can be done. The timing cover would have to be clearanced.
The problem is the knock sensors will pick up the noise as knock and retard the timing. You can program the timing retard out but it will make the whole knock/esc system useless.
__________________
1995 Driftwood Metallic 9C1 Caprice
LT4 383, manual valve body 700R4, 4.56 gears, a few other mods.
|

12-08-03, 11:14
|
 |
Member
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 84
Rep Power: 5
|
|
|
Ok...I see. Man, I would love to have the power of the vette motor but I want the whine of the gear drive real bad. Does anyone know how hard it is to program the knock sensor to not affect the preformance of the engine?
Thanks for the input.
__________________
|

12-08-03, 11:43
|
 |
Administrator
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 5,309
Rep Power: 12
|
|
|
Since you have a pre-LT1 motor, you'll need to get a custom chip from FastChip or PCMFORLESS.
|

12-08-03, 13:54
|
 |
4aDrive Elite
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: NYC/Long Island
Posts: 1,373
Rep Power: 8
|
|
|
Chevy Mobbin you gotta post some pics of your ride, nice paint job its looks like you're on spinners?
__________________

383 stroker: 230/236 .603/.608 110 LSA}LE3 Heads&Cam 11.5:1 compression Edge 3860 stall TeamTripp HO tranny SSRI F-Body MAF AS&M 58mm Throttle Body Ported matched 58mm intake manifold Tri Y's Spintech 2.5 pro street/no cats CSI water pump 160Tstat 4.10 gears Eaton posi Dynotech 3.5 MMC drive shaft TR6 plugs Accel 300 8.5 Magnecores SVO 30lbs injectors Racetronic 255 walbro pump Plus way more mods Stock LS1 Camaro on DUBS, 85 Monte Carlo SS
|

12-08-03, 19:12
|
 |
Member
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 84
Rep Power: 5
|
|
Quote:
Originally posted by 9C1LT195
Since you have a pre-LT1 motor, you'll need to get a custom chip from FastChip or PCMFORLESS.
|
Actually the vette motor will be for my 64 impala. So I am still up in the air on which year range motor to shoot for. I like the style of the TPI intakes...but would not be opposed to a LT4 intake. Its gotta look good AND preform well. I will keep this post alive as I come across more questions. Thanks.
And Ree9c1---no spinners  Just 20 inch wires..candy powdercoated blue.
Going to paint my caprice blue after the sixtyfour is done.
__________________
|

12-09-03, 00:20
|
 |
Member
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 84
Rep Power: 5
|
|
|
Water pump????
New question. All the water pumps I see are electric. Can I change that out with a mechanical? I keep reading that after a certain year the flow of coolant changes and runs through the head first......does this affect the water pump application from a regular 350 block?
__________________
|

12-09-03, 09:35
|
 |
Administrator
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 5,309
Rep Power: 12
|
|
|
LT1 and LT4 engines (93-97) have reverse cooling as well as a camshaft driven waterpump. A lot of people replace it with a electric one to free hp at higher rpms.
LT1 uses a special timing chain kit that includes a shaft which rotates the waterpump as well as a timing cover with a hole and a seal for the shaft. You can probably use a regular, belt driven waterpump from a small block with an LT1 engine. You would need to make custom brackets for it.
If I had an older (60-70's) Chevy, I would just put a big block into it. It would be a lot easier than trying to adapt LT1/LT4 and produce more power.
|

12-09-03, 10:41
|
 |
4aDrive Elite
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Houston
Posts: 5,255
Rep Power: 11
|
|
|
Re: Water pump????
Quote:
Originally posted by Chevy Mobbin
New question. All the water pumps I see are electric. Can I change that out with a mechanical? I keep reading that after a certain year the flow of coolant changes and runs through the head first......does this affect the water pump application from a regular 350 block?
|
Okay, I'm gonna put my two cents in. I have heard the terms "electric water pump" and "mechanical water pump" used frequently. Wether the pump is driven by an electric motor or the crankshaft, a belt..whatever, it's still MECHANICAL! In theory any object with one or more moving part would be considered to be a mechanical device. So any and all waterpumps ever made, and any type of pump period for that matter is mechanical. Okay sorry, I know this doesn't really pertain to the subject matter of this thread, but it was itching me like a dingleberry.
|

12-09-03, 11:13
|
 |
Stirred Up
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3,488
Rep Power: 9
|
|
|
Maximus, electric or mechanical refers to how it is DRIVEN, not what happens afterward...
__________________
Funny How?
|

12-09-03, 21:07
|
 |
Administrator
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 5,309
Rep Power: 12
|
|
|
I 100% agree with Incitatus.
An electric waterpump uses a brushed dc motor, while a mechanical watermpump is driven by a mechanical part of the engine.
Do you consider your microwave mechanical because it has mechanical parts that rotate the plate? :eh:
__________________
1995 Driftwood Metallic 9C1 Caprice
LT4 383, manual valve body 700R4, 4.56 gears, a few other mods.
|

12-09-03, 21:11
|
 |
Member
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 84
Rep Power: 5
|
|
Ok.......I have seen some pictures with the water pumps off....and have seen the hole in the timing chain cover. I was wonder what that was for. Sounds like I need to see one hands on to see that deal is. I thought all the motors with the smooth looking water pump were electric....guess I was wrong. hmmm  It seems its going to be more of a struggle to get the gear drive and old style pump on the vette motor.
And I'm not trying to go for just power. This car is going to have hydraulics and the front end needs to be lighter for hopping...and still have good power to pull the heavy reinforced frame and batteries/pumps in the trunk.
__________________
|

12-09-03, 23:25
|
 |
4aDrive Elite
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Houston
Posts: 5,255
Rep Power: 11
|
|
Quote:
Originally posted by 9C1LT195
I 100% agree with Incitatus.
An electric waterpump uses a brushed dc motor, while a mechanical watermpump is driven by a mechanical part of the engine.
Do you consider your microwave mechanical because it has mechanical parts that rotate the plate? :eh:
|
Yes, the electric water pump is mechanical. The electric motor produces mechanical energy, which is a force, to turn the pump over. yes the microwave would technically be a mechaincal device also. There is a motor in there turning the plate. That is mechanical energy. In fact, the only purpose of an electric motor is to convert electrical energy into mechanical energy. Look in any high school physics book. I know what the terms "electric water pump" and "mechanical water pump" mean. I was only saying that the electric one does in fact have mechanical properties about it .
|

12-09-03, 23:35
|
 |
Administrator
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 5,309
Rep Power: 12
|
|
Quote:
Originally posted by maximus
The electric motor produces mechanical energy,
|
 You are confused about the definitions of electric and electronic.
Electric motors usually rotate mechanical (or should I say physical) parts. The key point is they use current to do it. That is the whole point of electric devices/tools.
__________________
1995 Driftwood Metallic 9C1 Caprice
LT4 383, manual valve body 700R4, 4.56 gears, a few other mods.
|

12-10-03, 09:36
|
 |
Stirred Up
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3,488
Rep Power: 9
|
|
Quote:
|
I know this doesn't really pertain to the subject matter of this thread
|
I suppose you are technically correct, Maximus, but let's not get bogged down in minutia.
We can pick up the science debate in the Off Topic area.
9C1LT195,
Are you saying that a gear drive is possible, but not practical?
I've heard a lot of good things regarding the responsiveness of a gear driven engine and I wouldn't mind converting my engine (or any subsequent engine) to a gear drive if I thought it could be done without giving myself one headache after another.
__________________
Funny How?
|

12-10-03, 09:43
|
 |
Administrator
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 5,309
Rep Power: 12
|
|
|
It's possible but you'll have to convert to an electric waterpump and desensitize the knock sensors. Otherwise the knock sensors will pick up the noise and significantly reduce the timing.
Personally, I would not mess with knock sensors.
Last edited by 9C1LT195; 12-10-03 at 09:45.
|

12-10-03, 10:00
|
 |
Stirred Up
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3,488
Rep Power: 9
|
|
|
From what I understand, some of these "newer" double and triple timing chains eliminate as much cam lag as a gear.
So, with the exception of the gear whine that the man wanted, I'm guessing that a high-performance gear set and chain would be the way to go.
__________________
Funny How?
|

12-10-03, 10:06
|
 |
Administrator
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 5,309
Rep Power: 12
|
|
|
I use Cloyes double roller. It has almost no slack unlike the GM chains. You will still need to use an electric waterpump since the waterpump gear won't work with aftermarket timing chains.
|

12-10-03, 15:00
|
 |
4aDrive Elite
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Brooklyn
Posts: 743
Rep Power: 7
|
|
|
I was so surprised when I saw how much slack was in a brand new LT1 timing set that I bought...im also running Cloyes, but yesterday browsing through the new summit catalog, i saw Lunati LT1 timing set, and it looked like a double chain in the picture...it was labeled NEW, so it must have been recently developed.
__________________
|

12-10-03, 15:52
|
 |
Stirred Up
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3,488
Rep Power: 9
|
|
|
I wish someone would develop an auto-tensioner for that chain.
I guess they couldn't because it would either advance or retard the valve timing as it started taking up the slack (depending on which side it was mounted).
Well, I wonder if dual tensioners would work. Has anyone ever heard of anything like this?:
__________________
Funny How?
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 19:30.
|