Car wont start

*Ree9c1* · #1 03-02-03, 12:45

Lately I've been noticing my airbag light coming on and off. Then recently its stays on all the time. I was wondering if the car was trying to tell me something? On weak days my girl drives the car, 2 days ago my car wouldnt start for her. She was at work when this happened. When I got to her job I couldnt figure out why the car wount start. I got some jumper cables and jump started it, it worked

. I figured it needed a new battery because the batter it had in it was a small old battery. I drove it home and kept it park for the last 2 days. This Morning I started the Thunder Bird to make sure its batter was ok and everything was fine. I removed the battery and put it in the Caprice, the caprice wouldnt start

? I tried jumping it but it still wouldnt start? I turn the key allway but it wont turn over, the lights just go off?

*capriceman* · #2 03-02-03, 13:14

On the passenger side fender, near the fire wall, there is an under the hood fuse box.
For some goofy reason, GM used a soft aluminium post for the connection. It melts. Mine did. Try using a short jumper wire from the end of the connecting wire to the bottom of that post. It sounds like that's Your problem.
You can get a copper replacement post for around $20 at the dealer.
It is real easy to replace. It took me about 10 min.
You may want to check the alternater. Disconnect the battery with the engine running. It should keep running.
What throws me is the air bag lite. The book says that if it flashes, or is on for the first few seconds, the computer is checking the air bag system.
If it stays on there is a problem with the system.
Perhaps the bad connection caused a problem.
N.A.S.A. has a saying.
"If the system lite comes on, the lite is probibly broken."

MrSag · #3 03-02-03, 21:40

Quote:

Originally posted by capriceman
On the passenger side fender, near the fire wall, there is an under the hood fuse box.
For some goofy reason, GM used a soft aluminium post for the connection. It melts. Mine did. Try using a short jumper wire from the end of the connecting wire to the bottom of that post. It sounds like that's Your problem.
You can get a copper replacement post for around $20 at the dealer.
It is real easy to replace. It took me about 10 min.
You may want to check the alternater. Disconnect the battery with the engine running. It should keep running.
What throws me is the air bag lite. The book says that if it flashes, or is on for the first few seconds, the computer is checking the air bag system.
If it stays on there is a problem with the system.
Perhaps the bad connection caused a problem.
N.A.S.A. has a saying.
"If the system lite comes on, the lite is probibly broken."

Is that the small red fusebox? I might have the same problem.

*capriceman* · #4 03-02-03, 22:22

On my '94 it's black.
It's easy to idenify. It has a threaded post on the firewall side w/ a wire attached by one nut and washer. Pop the cover off and if You see fuses, that's it.
My car gave my Dad a hard time about it, stalling a few times. He made a jumper and that worked OK. for a wile.
Since I replaced the post, I haven't had so much as a flicker out of place.
I think GM realized the mistake, and rather than a recall, they just made a better replacement part and didn't charge alot.
I think it was like $12 or something.

*Ree9c1* · #5 03-03-03, 10:28

I thought I knew what ya'll were talking about but I think I'm wrong. Theres a copper wire connection from the back of the hood to the fire wall? I'm asuming thats it but I'm looking at it and it seams fine? I see the fuse box but I dont see any soft aluminum post? Can you give me more details please:verysad:?

*Ree9c1* · #6 03-03-03, 11:09

You ever have your car in drive instead of park or neutral and try to start it? Well thats what it feels like. I keep checking to see if its in park, I tried starting it in neutral and it doesnt. I'm sure its just a simple problem but I cant figure it out. I cant Identify this connection y'all are talking about

eat_world · #7 03-03-03, 13:46

i had that happen once. it ended up being the starter (the actual key part) but you don't seem to be having any trouble getting the key out so i don't think that would be your problem.

**Incitatus** · #8 03-03-03, 21:39

Quote:

Disconnect the battery with the engine running.

I don't think this is a recommended procedure anymore -because some of the newer distributors and alternators can't tolerate it. I'd check a year-specific service manual to make sure it won't cause any damage -in some models it will.

*capriceman* · #9 03-03-03, 22:14

The wire coming from the hood to the fire wall is probibly for the lite.
The fuse box/connection in question. If You stand directly next to the front passenger side tire, facing the car, put your left hand on the wheel well, move your hand straight toward the fire wall and You will find the fuse box. It is at an angel of about 35deg.
The post is on the shortest length on the side nearest the fire wall.I don't mean to speak to You like Youre five, but that's the best way I can describe the location.
Remember my car is a '94. GM may have fixed the problem for the next model year.
From what You just posted, I'm thinking that it may be the park/nuetral sensor. If that goes out of whack, it could allways, or intermitenly think that it's in drive.
It could be just a loose or dirty connection somewhere. I have fixed a number of things just by unplugging it, cleaning it up and plugging it back in. It likely is something simple like You said.

MrSag · #10 03-04-03, 23:08

I think I found the post. It was covered by a plastic cap that said "AUX POS" or something like that. It seems to be fine though. No sign of melting or anything. What role does it play? Anything important connects to it? Should I bother taking it apart and cleaning it?

*capriceman* · #11 03-04-03, 23:44

Mr. Sag
I believe that's it. When it melts it does it from the bottom so that the post itself is making poor contact with the fuse box.
Try tightening it a little.
If that makes a difference then that is Your problem. I'm suprised that You haven't had problems before. For less than $20 it's worth getting the cooper or steel piece.
That way You won't have any problems on a road trip or anything.
Ree
I just saw a picture of greatwhite's '95.
Sorry. That is not the same fuse box. Looks like GM fixed that little glitch.
Unless it's the park/neutral sensor, I don't really know what to tell You.
I had a simmiler proplem on a '73 Caddi. It turned out to be as simple as a loose battery connection.
Wish I could tell You.."hey, it definately is the connuter, or possibly the popindopolis extruder valve.." But I really don't know.
Unless it is a loose battery connection, (check both ends of the three wires), I believed that You have stumped the Old Man of the forum.

Check the alternater connections as well. If You have a loose ground making intermittent contact, that would exibit the same symptoms.

*capriceman* · #12 03-05-03, 00:49

I will not go quietly into that night...I cry START!...and unleash the Lt1's of war.
Obvious...Check the battery. The ignition switch should have 1 purple or yellow wire, to theft deterent relay to deterent module, or to starter relay. Yellow if out of deterent relay. That is the switch for the stater. 2 red leading into 1 red, acc. to under hood fuse box, fuse #11.red or black to starter relay. From that point black to positive side of battery, black to generator. 1 orange to the fuse box (under dash,fuse # 5) out of fuse box brown to I think a fuseable link, then brown and wite to generator, that's the run connection, and 1 pink wire,start, bulb test and run,to under dash fuse box, fuse # 17, pink/blue to charge indicater,(intrument panel),brown to generator. All that just to get the engine to crank.
Since the charge indicator is tied in to the start position of the ignition switch, if any of those connections or fuses is bad or sporaticly making contact, that would create the symptoms.
I would first check the fuses, then the starter solinoid (relay).
If that doesn't fix it, get the car to someone with the rite diagnostic equipment. It would take a very long time to check all those connections with a multimeter.
My gut says that it's a fuse. But then again, my gut also said buy Elron.
Good Luck.

*Ree9c1* · #13 03-05-03, 01:50

I decided to give up and have it towed to a local auto shop

I cant figure whats wrong with the car for the life of me. I have a feeling its something small but I know I will have to chop off a limb to pay these expensive fuckers at the mechanic shop. One disadvantage of living in a high class privledge area is that you cant find a good mechanic for miles. If you do find a mech, hes going to charge the hell out of you. He probably doesnt know too much about your car because he works on Jaguars, Range Rovers and import calls all day. A flat tire in the Bronx cost me 3 bucks to fix, out here on Long Island it cost me $20.

*Ree9c1* · #14 03-05-03, 13:06

IT NEEDS A NEW STARTER:angry:!!! These assholes better be right because I dont know why it would need one. They told me it would cost over $200 dollars and change but I was like NO! I have my own GM connection. So I just called up Dal, he talked me into getting a Corvette Starter, he said they were better, lighter, and brand new compared to the regular GM ones that are remanufactured. Plus if I brought the remanufactured one there would be a core charge. The GM one was like around $160 without core. The Corvette startere was about $180 plus shipping. DAL IS THE MAN!!! He even put me on as priority because I told him I needed it before saturday's Dyno day. I was supposed to receive next weak on monday because he would have it shipped out tomorrow. Lets see if he keeps his promise

:redeyes:GOD DAMN LOCAL MECHANICS WANTED ME TO PAY OVER $200 AND CHANGE FOR A REBUILT STARTER!!! Ha Ha Ha! dont make me laugh, they just better be right!

stompah · #15 03-05-03, 13:11

Are you sure its the starter and not a bad solenoid? Those things corrode nicely down there. Check it out.

Also on GM solenoids you can remove the plastic cap and twist the copper bolt 180 degrees. Just check that bolt to see if it had been done before. Not a guarantee fix but cheap if it works.

**Incitatus** · #16 03-05-03, 18:58

Quote:

remove the plastic cap and twist the copper bolt 180 degrees

I had forgotten about that trick... I've also had luck with taking that bolt all the way out and rubbing it on sandpaper held flat on a tabletop (basically reconditioning the entire surface).

If that corvette starter works as good as it seems like it will I may look into doing it to mine when the time comes.

*capriceman* · #17 03-05-03, 22:47

Unless it's shorting out, the starter shouldn't cause the dadh to stay dark when You release the to the run position.
I hope that's the trouble and it's an easy fix.
Sounds a little pricey, but I was shocked when I had to replace the alternator. $125.00:doh:

*capriceman* · #18 03-05-03, 22:58

Unless it's shorting out, the starter shouldn't cause the dadh to stay dark when You release the to the run position.
I hope that's the trouble and it's an easy fix.
Sounds a little pricey, but I was shocked when I had to replace the alternator. $125.00:doh: