View Full Version : stumble Part 3: now I know the problem,wtf do I do
Argh, well I got it diagnosed, and we were ALL totally off heh. The engine is fine, but the torque convert lockup switch is basically randomly fuxored. Meaning every now and then when I come to a stop the converter doesn't allow it to slip, bogging the engine down and almost stalling. I've already checked the wiring outside the tranny, it appears to be fine. The guy at the shop felt it LIKELY wasn't the converter itself that was damaged, but the solenoid and/or wiring.
I'm gonna call around to tranny shops about getting it done. I don't have anywhere to do that kind of work on my car, as it involves at LEAST dropping the pan and the valvebody to get at the solenoid, if memory serves me. Can any of you guys think of any other place to check before I delve into the depths?
The tranny is kinda weak anyway, takes a while to drop into D, etc etc, so worst case I'm just gonna save up several hundred and get the whole thing rebuilt anyway. Hoping for a temporary answer in the meantime.
oh, and I have a further question for a temporary fix? Would unplugging the harness for the lockup not fix the problem? Would just hurt mileage a bit, and I don't plan on going out of town anytime soon.
Try replacing the lockup solenoid. If it doesn't help disabling the lockup seems like a good temporary solution.
Is there any practical way to rig a switch to it...
(interrupt the circuit with an in-line switch -run the switch up to the dash)
In city driving you can switch it off, any extended driving you could easily turn it back on.
Just a thought.
were it a 4L60, yes, just a switch would do, or unplug it. Unfortunately it's a 4L60E so it's all one big wiring harness. anyway, replacing the solenoid now :P
k I got the solenoid replaced, it's all good now... still a bit of a stumble at idle I gotta figure that out now.
BTW, Out of curiousity, I changed the solenoid and now the tranny doesn't go into lockup at all (not such a bad thing)... I pulled the codes again, and it gave me a code 90. I asked a tranny guy and he said it means the solenoid now has a closed circuit, but it's still not being activated, and said there was some kinda module INSIDE the PCM that controls this, that might be faulty. Anyone hear anything like this?
capriceman
06-08-03, 13:45
New one on me.
I hate to say it, but mabey a dealership?
Find one with a service dept. that has a good reputation.
The tranny guy there should be an expert on the 4L60E.
It wouldn't suprise me if he had a diagnostic device that we haven't even heard of yet.
I think at this point You need someone who really knows the 4L60E inside and out.
Don't forgett to bring a hack saw.
(for the arm and leg You'll have to give them.)
capriceman
06-08-03, 13:57
This just dawned on me. See if You can get someone to check the programming.
Not to see if it's throwing codes, but the actuall programming it'self.
Computers are funny. Can be going along fine for years, then all of a sudden it loses a 1 somewhere. That alone probibly wouldn't do it, but it could cascade to something else.
Electronics don't like temprature extreems one way or the other, and up Your way it gets pretty cold. (that's not a Canada joke).
My sister has a buick with an EPROM. It got cold enough that the car wouldn't start last winter. My father fixed it with a blow dryer. That was in Md.
Or I could be WaYYYY into left field somewhere.
interesting lol :D
I was honestly thinking of just swapping PCMs, I have a line on lots of used caprice parts... do I specifically have to have one for a 4.3 9C1, or do they all interchange with gen2 motors?
gmtech949c1
06-12-03, 22:14
ok, so it seems like you have a few problems... one of the most common off idle lt1 complaints is the egr valve. first thing to do is disconnect it, plug it and drive, if it goes away, replace your egr vavle and solenoid, this is very common, i have been a certified gm tech for years now, and have replaced a bunch of these. next on your trans... how competent are you mechanically? i know those trannies very well.
I'm quite competent... the problem is a complete lack of facilities to work on a car, and a landlord that threatens to evict me if I take a wheel off... I don't think it's the EGR, I tested it as you said before and it didn't change.... I'm changing the o2s and fuel filter tomorrow, I'm really hoping it's the o2, since the problem doesn't happen until warming up to operating temperature.
But if it's not those 3, my main worry is a further problem with the TCC, since it's now throwing the code 90 I mentioned above... the tranny guy assures me this just means the lockup is disabled... but could it be the opposite still, keeping the lockup on at all times?
gmtech949c1
06-14-03, 02:12
well i guess that kinda screws you on repairing the tranny yourself, chances are the failure is internal the trans itself, very few trans problems are actually caused by the PCM, you know, the pressure switch assembly bolted to the valve body does go bad and causes problems, the switch contacts get worn or plugged with debris, but i can't say for sure, i am used the newer obd2 codes, so i will look it up in the manual and get back to you with some maybe some kinda direction, but without having a place to work on it kinda limits your diagnostic capability even with help........
I appreciate it, but it's not an immediate problem. I changed the fuel filter and the one bad o2 sensor and the car runs great though... tho, presumably, without locking the TC. This is not the end of the world but will hurt my gas mileage a bit on the highway. I was planning on a new tranny this year anyway, this one is quite tired.
gmtech949c1
06-15-03, 12:34
if your TCC is truly not locking up, then it is extremely IMPORTANT that you do not use overdrive. running overdrive with out tcc lockup will overheat the converter and the trans. overheating the trans will destroy it!! just remember to do that until you can get it all repaired.... good luck!
er ack, now that I didn't know... is there any quick way to confirm it is or is not locking up?
Quickest way I know of is by driving about 60 MPH (so you are positive the convertor is locked), then while keeping the speed, simply press the brake while driving. You don't have to press it hard, just enough to activate the switch. When you press the brake in OD, it will automatically disengage the lock on the TC.
You should be able to feel it lock and unlock as you press and release the brake. If not, then you probably have issues there.
Good luck.
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