Stumbling / Shaking Problem

[DR2000]

Something's happening to my car during the past 2 days.

Sometimes (like 1 time out of 4) when I stop on the intersection I notice it shaking pretty badly. When I release the brake it starts to roll with some kind of pretty violent surges.

Another thing that occured (might not be related at all, but still bothers me) was the low coolant light coming on. I put in about 3/4 of a gallon in there. No idea where it went.

Any ideas?

Another note: my exhaust manifold is pretty much non existent at this point, so there is a chance that it has burned the plug wires, or something, but then it would shake all the time, wouldn't it?

Any info's appreciated.

[9C1LT195]

It sounds ignition related. Could be a burned wire or a bad opti. It can also be a bad maf or o2 sensors. The last 3 usually trigger the CEL.

The coolant light probem is probably just a stuck sensor inside the overflow tank. Try to tap it. If it doesn't help you can get it pretty cheap from Dal. It's a pretty common problem.

[DR2000]

Thanks man.

I was hoping for a burned wire too. It probably is in some initial state of being totally f-ed up.

The wierd thing is that I stop on a light, it's shaking, and pretty badly too, and then it'll just go back to normal on it's own.

I'm going to be installing TriYs somewhere at the end of May, so I'll change the plugs, wires, o2 sensors (got a pair from my white car, they were almost new there), and get rid of EGR.

Adding coolant got rid of the light, so what worries me is that my coolant went somewhere. Althought I probably didn't add any since I bought the car, so it might've been on low all the time.

Btw, what's a good place to get spark plug wires? I'm thinking of getting either Taylog or Magnicore (or what was it) 8.5mm wires. Any recomendation on the plugs?

[capriceman]

Probibly ignition wire. If the insulation got over cooked, the wire could be contacting something and causing it to short out.
When the contact is broken, it stops.
Check the wires carefully. Just a small knick or crack could do it.
For plugs, I like the good old AC Delco Platinums for my pourpus. (but I think the pourpus preferrs fish)
They go 100,000 miles before needing to be changed.
I've heard mixed about the titanium plugs.
Theres always the ever reliable Champion.
They have a decent line of performance plugs. For the coolent, I'd say it sounds like you have a leak. You can get some dye at a local parts place to find out where.
Probibly just something loose. The hose on the right side of the goose neck is a pretty popular place.

[9C1LT195]

As for the coolant, you should presurize the cooling system and look for leaks.

Lingenfelter.com has the best price on Magnecore wires, afaik. As for the plugs, just use any copper plug. They have a hotter spark than platinum, etc. Headers will make the plug access MUCH easier, so you don't have to worry about the extended lfe that much. I had good luck with NGK TR55.

[DR2000]

Ok, it's gotten worse today. Shakes almost every time I stop now. Need to get new wires. I'm just not sure if I can drive like this for a month, while I wait for my headers.

To be sure on the wires:
http://www.lingenfelter.com/lingenfelter/product.asp?dept%5Fid=44&pf%5Fid=82

I want 85205 ones, right?

Also what's a good way to hold them in place? Are they going to be routed differently with TriYs compared to the stock ones?

[9C1LT195]

The p/n is correct. From the pictures of tri-y's I've seen, it seems that you're better off routing them the stock way.

With Afterburners I bought a over-the-valve-cover taylor kit from www.thunderracing.com . However, the shape of Afterburners near the flanges is different from tri-y's since the Afterburners are full length headers. They go straight down much closer to the block.

[eat_world]

that shaking sounds alot like when a relay went bad in my ABS. All i did was remove the relay and take the ABS light out of the dash. I don't have the ABS any more but it never really helped me any way.

[Incitatus]

As far as spark plugs go, copper plugs may be a little hotter, but I prefer platinum for the simple reason that they last so much longer than copper and they perform more consistently throughout their lifecycle.
It seems that you sacrifice plug longevity for a slightly hotter ignition for a short period of time.
My experience with platinum plugs is that they tend to last nearly twice as long as standard plugs and aren't nearly as fouled or corroded when I take them out.

If you want a hotter spark, look for a hotter platinum plug.
(I just wouldn't get the +4's, the additional cost doesn't seem to be worth it.)

[capriceman]

Originally posted by eat_world
that shaking sounds alot like when a relay went bad in my ABS. All i did was remove the relay and take the ABS light out of the dash. I don't have the ABS any more but it never really helped me any way.

It probibly did help You out once or twice and You didn't realize it.
Unless you really stomp the break pedal, they're pretty subtle.

There are about 2 1/2 gazillion plug brands and types out there.
I was happy about the platinum plugs for the reason that I'man gave. More consistant. Copper is a soft metal. Platinum is also concidered a "soft metal", but it will withstand varying temps for a longer period of time without loosing resistance properties.
I won't need them for quite a wile yet, but I plan to look into the titanium plugs for the same reason.
Don't fall for the "split fire" gimmick.
The amount of fuel/air mixture requires x amount of ignition to explode with the desired force.
A one resistor plug will deliver that force. A twin resister plug will not make the fuel/air expand or explode with greater force.
At least that's my understanding of it.